March 12, 2025 (Japan) — In 2024, the export value of sake reached 43.5 billion yen, with 3.45 million cases (9L equivalent) exported to a record-high 80 countries and regions. Both the export value and volume saw a year-on-year increase of 6%, with an average unit price of 1,050 yen per 750ml. Compared to five years ago in 2020, the number of export destinations increased by 19, export value grew by 80%, and the average unit price increased by 26%, indicating that premium sake is being exported to a broader range of regions. The growing attention to Japanese sake was further highlighted when, for the first time in its 35-year history, a question about sake was included in the service task of the finals of the European, Middle East & Africa Sommelier Championship, held in Belgrade, Serbia in November 2024. Sommeliers are now beginning to convey to consumers that sake can be enjoyed as casually as wine while also highlighting its unique charm.
In January 2025, the Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association organized a breweries tour for wine experts from around the world who are eager to deepen their understanding of sake and are in a position to share its appeal with a broad audience. The purpose of this project was to provide professionals at the forefront of the wine industry with specialized knowledge of sake, not only through theoretical learning but also by visiting breweries to deepen their understanding. The invited experts are expected to use this experience to convey the profound charm of sake to their home country’s wine industry, trade professionals, and consumers while also offering constructive suggestions to the sake industry.
The invitees included Sören Polonius, Co-Director of the Exam and Education Committee of the Association de la Sommellerie Internationale (ASI), Tiago Paula, President of the Portuguese Sommelier Association, Vincenzo Arnese, who has been awarded Best Sommelier at the GQ Food & Drink Awards in the UK and represented the UK in the international sommelier championship in 2024, Almudena Alberca, the first female Master of Wine in Spain, and Alicia Ahuactzi Martinez, the winner of the 2024 Mexico Sake Academy.
The group visited Niigata Prefecture, which has the largest number of sake breweries in Japan, and Gunma Prefecture, home to breweries producing unique sake, such as bottle- fermented sparkling sake and sake brewed with ambient yeast. Reflecting on the visits to various breweries, Sören Polonius stated, “This visit was an extremely important experience in understanding the differences and styles of each brewery. By visiting both large and small- scale breweries, I was able to learn about the unique solutions and brewing techniques each employs. This experience reaffirmed the coexistence of diverse approaches within the sake industry.”
One of the most memorable experiences for the invitees was a lecture at the Niigata University Sakeology Center. The center offers academic education on sake and has signed an interdepartmental exchange agreement with the Institute of Vine & Wine Science (ISVV) at the University of Bordeaux in 2019 and an inter-university exchange agreement with the University of California, Davis in 2020. During their stay, the five experts participated in sensory training to distinguish sake’s unique ginjo aroma and off-flavors and tasted multiple sakes brewed under identical raw material and fermentation conditions, differing only in yeast strains. Tiago Paula remarked, “The academic and scientific approach stood out, providing deep insights into the factors influencing sake quality. Systematic research like this is essential for increasing the international recognition of sake and for professionals seeking more specialized knowledge.”
When asked about the unique characteristics of sake at the end of the tour, Vincenzo Arnese noted, “One distinct aspect of sake is its very low acidity. This allows it to pair well with a wide range of dishes without overpowering their flavors. In addition to this balance, the naturally occurring umami makes sake a smooth and rounded all-purpose beverage. Another key feature is that sake does not contain added sulfur dioxide, which not only preserves its clarity but also results in a less stimulating and softer mouthfeel compared to beverages containing sulfur dioxide.” All the invitees enthusiastically emphasized the food pairing potential of sake. Sören Polonius commented, “Sake is special in that it is less likely to fail in food pairing. Unlike wine, which can sometimes clash with certain dishes, sake’s rich umami content allows it to harmonize naturally with a wide variety of foods. Instead of considering sake as the ‘last choice,’ I believe that thinking of it as the ‘first choice’ is the best way to maximize its appeal.”
On the other hand, Alicia Ahuactzi Martinez noted one challenge the industry faces is the fact that many consumers outside of Japan remain largely unaware of sake’s diversity. “Many people believe that sake only has a ginjo aroma, which is a major misconception. For example, honjozo sake is full-bodied and rounded with a rich flavor, namagenshu (unpasteurized and undiluted sake) has a fresh character and sharp acidity, and aged sake (koshu) offers flavors similar to Madeira and Sherry. It is essential to raise awareness that sake is a much more diverse and complex beverage.” Almudena Alberca MW added, “By promoting the diversity of sake in its production process, history, flavors, and food pairings, sake can gain greater recognition worldwide.”
The invitees have already begun planning initiatives after returning to their respective countries. Vincenzo Arnese stated, “I am exploring collaboration opportunities with the UK Sommelier Academy and ASI (Association de la Sommellerie Internationale) to expand sake knowledge within a broader sommelier community. Through this effort, I hope to further enhance sake’s recognition and appreciation in the UK’s food and beverage industry.” Sören Polonius added, “I am working on creating a blind tasting grid for ASI and aim to release it as soon as possible. This initiative will further encourage sommeliers to develop a deeper interest in sake.” Almudena Alberca MW also expressed her enthusiasm, saying, “I will focus on education and promotion within the sommelier and Master of Wine (MW) communities.”
On December 4, 2024, in Asuncion, Paraguay, the “Traditional Knowledge and Skills of Sake-Making with Koji Mold in Japan” was inscribed on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list. This registration is expected to further increase interest in sake, which is brewed using traditional and advanced techniques with koji mold. The JSS aims to continue fostering sake demand worldwide by increasing the number of people who love and share the appeal of sake while incorporating constructive advice from wine industry experts.
